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The Proper way to break in a Performance Engine

Contributed By: Enginebasics.com

If there is one Internet topic that has just kicked a horse dead, it is the proper method to breaking in a motor. There has been so much written on this topic that enginebasics.com would like to just give you the two main arguments out there.

1. Break it in easy Method one says that the motor should be run very light for its first 1,000 miles of use. That you should constantly be varying the load on the engine while also varying the RPM, but never exceed part throttle in any situation. The idea here is that the motor needs light loads and varying RPM to gently wear all of the parts together so that they will match without causing damage or excessive wear to any given part.

2. Break it in like it’s going to be driven Method two involved breaking in the motor the way it’s going to be driven. If it’s going to be driven hard, then break it in hard. The man who has been accredited for starting this type of engine break in procedure is Motoman. Check out his website.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Break in Oil

For both options it is said to use standard oil. Don’t use any type of blend or synthetic oil till you have 2,500 to 3,500 miles on the engine. Again many say to switch to synthetic later rather than sooner. Synthetics are too slippery and will basically STOP the break in of any motor once it is added. This is why it is best to just stay off the synthetic oil bandwagon till you are completely sure the motor is broken in.

Enginebasics.com opinion

Incase you were wondering I seem to side with Motoman. Some would then argue: “Well if that’s the proper way to break in a motor than why do all of the OEM manufactures with there high paid engineers says to break it in easy?”

Answer: I think it’s because they are mass-producing motors where there can be many differences in tolerances and spacing between different production runs. With so many variables it is best to break the engine in slow since there could be high amounts of heat and wear that occur because of these differences. For the manufacture, even though the motors rings may not seal as well, it won’t lead to a blown motor.

For a motor that has been hand built, and measured by a machine shop to have perfect tolerances knowing that everything has been machined correctly, then option two just makes way more sense.

So there it is. Another opinion out there in the Internet world. It’s up to you to do what you think is best for you and your motor. Whatever your decision, it will always be the right decision for you.